Thursday, August 29, 2013

8/29/13

I've got two layers of gel coat on the plug and that should be plenty. Next step is fiberglass to reenforce the gel coat then its time for separation and I can get a good look at the mold!!!




Monday, August 19, 2013

8/19/13

Right now I have a hatch mounted to a board. The board is covered with Mylar and is acting as a flat place to lay glass around the hatch to that the mold has a flange. This is a positive... known as a plug. The surface has to be completely flawless but it only has to have enough strength to last long enough for me to make a mold off of it. To make the mold, I have everything waxed and sprayed with PVA. PVA is a sprayable film that will keep the mold from sticking to the plug. Then, I'll brush on tooling gel coat, back that with 1.5oz chopped strand mat, 1708 fiberglass mat, and resin. This will form a mold. I should be able to lift the mold off of the plug. The mold will be a negative of the final part. I'll talk about that when I get there. Right now I have 2 coats of PVA on my plug so the next step is gel coat and fiberglass. 




Spartan V-3

Goals for the Spartan V-3:
-Fiberglass hull more rigid than stock ABS
-No visible seam at the hull and deck joint
-Maintain use of "radio tray" or at least something as easy to use.
-Cool paint job

Plans:
-Make a mold of the hatch, deck, and hull
-Make a hatch, deck, and hull out of fiberglass inside the molds
-Pull them out of their molds
-Glass the deck and hull together
-Body work
-Paint it
-Figure out what I'm going to do inside to make the radio tray work
-Mount hardware
-Test and tune